![]() So I started experimenting with other mediums and discovered what I think might be the best use for Quickshade(dip) never invented. The results were inconsistent and the mix didn’t quite spread around the way I’d like it to. ![]() And on small bases this was alright, but on the larger bases (and terrain) it didn’t quite cut the mustard. Using your pliers holding the miniature (try not to damage the base) swing the miniature firmly toward the floor. I’d use washes or inks, or dirty water even. Use a good half Inch brush and ensure you give it a even covering, this technique gives a lot of control and I have seen some people thin the Quickshade with a little turpentine 8.Ouch.īecause of this, I started experimenting with staining the sand a few years ago. That brush is pulling on that sand like a two year old on daddy’s chest hair and some of it is bound to be ripped off. Just apply it with a brush or simply dip your base coated miniatures, shake, and you are almost done. PVA glue and scenic cement aren’t always strong enough to hold the sand in place for the purpose of painting. ![]() Firstly, unless you use something really strong (like superglue) then the sand will tend to flake off during painting. I myself use that method often, but I’ve run into a few problems with it over the years. A common technique is to glue sand down, glop on some black and spread it around, then drybrush with successive layers of grey or brown to naturally pick up the raised areas. Done Adding the finishing touches to your miniature like highlights, basing, effects, and other details to make it pop and forge your thematic story on the table. Most veteran painters will tell you to glue sand to your base before painting so that you paint the sand too. You’ll now learn the fast and easy way to add depth and shading to your basecoated miniature using Quickshade Dip and Wash. Greetings fellow wargamers! We all know the value of sand as a basing solution for our miniatures.
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